There is a moment, before the shops open and the traffic builds, when a city belongs to a few people and to the light. The streets are damp and empty, someone is sweeping a pavement, a delivery van is unloading at a back door, and the first café is putting out its chairs. If you can bring yourself to get up early, it is one of the most rewarding hours of a trip.
Making the most of the early hours
Go to bed at a sensible time the night before, and set an alarm that is gentle rather than harsh. Dress warmly, because early mornings can be cooler than you expect, even in summer. Leave your bag light, and take only what you need: your phone, a little money, a bottle of water and a map. Walk out into the quiet and let your eyes adjust to the different mood of the streets.
Head for places that change most as the day begins. A market setting up its stalls, a bakery with a queue at the door, a square where pigeons have it to themselves, a riverbank or waterfront with soft light. Take a moment to listen. You will hear things you never notice later: church bells, shutters going up, footsteps, conversation between neighbours. It is a soundtrack you cannot hear at noon.
The light is also at its best. Low sun makes old buildings glow, and the long shadows give every street a shape. If you enjoy photography, this is your time. Even if you do not, stand still and simply look. There are no crowds to move around, and you can see the details of doors, windows and fountains that are hidden by people later in the day.
Finish with a proper breakfast. Choose a small café where workers are stopping for coffee, and sit among them. Afterwards you may want to rest, and that is fine; an early morning earns a slow afternoon. Stay in areas where there are other people about, and keep track of where you are. You will have seen a side of the city that most visitors never meet.
